Three sport day. Gotta love this time off from work. Woke up at 3:30 a.m., grabbed a cup of coffee at Wawa, and drove down to Ocean City, N.J. Surfed for three hours. Surprisingly good, considering Surfline called for "flat and poor conditions" and Magic Seaweed was calling for just one star. Let's call it 1-3 feet, with the wind wavering between sideshore and off shore. Am riding a Michel Junod "Pumpkin Seed" model, 6-9 x 21.5 x 2.75, hand shaped in Santa Cruz. It took me a while to figure out you have to paddle it forward and you have to surf it forward. So today, I finally catch like 25 waves on this thing, and really discover the sweet spot. I've been riding short boards the past few years where you plant your foot on a stomp pad in the back and NEVER MOVE. With this board, you move your feet, get your fat ass forward and cruise. If you stand with your feet close to together and your hands just so, you ARE Joel Tudor. It's so ... God, i was starved -- i wanted a big fucking steak, or a juicy burger. Went to the North Side Grill, this tiny place with the paint peeling off and a grom board nailed to the wall, but it was amazing ... or at least it seemed so after nearly starving to death out there. ...
Back in the car, windows wide open on the AC Expressway, racing to get back to Philly and Boathouse Row, determined to get in my three sports.
Ran three miles on the Kelly Drive in mid-day in July .... made possible only by the fact that it was a cool, dry day. None of Philadelphia's legendary humidity. Now, i'm just keeping the motivation going. Got out on the water. It may have been coool and dry, but out on the water, the sun was beating down on the water, the wind had kicked up, and, to quote Jack Black, i'm thinking: "This ain't no walk in the park, lady." But, this was now the 10th straight day on the river, and i was feeling that every day rhythm, which says somedays are going to be good, some bad, but you're going to power through this. I got back to the dock and miraculously i felt OK. I'm loving this.
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