Thursday, July 9, 2009
All I want for summer
This summer, I want to work with my hands. I want to live off the food that comes from the garden. I want to surf till my arms are too tired to paddle. I want to go to sleep with salt on my skin. I want to eat Mexican food. I want to see where surfboards are made — the backyard sheds, the converted shipping containers, the warehouse spaces. I want to hear shapers tell their stories. I want to talk to old guys at San Onofre who have surfed since the 50s. I want to sleep on the ground. I want to get sunburned. I want to hoot when I catch a wave. I want to ride my bike. I want to run trails in the mountains overlooking the Pacific. I want to talk to the fisherman that catches the haddock in Maine. I want to smell the grass after it's mown. I want to "hear" music again, but also listen to the sound of the waves. I want a tour of Patagonia's headquarters. I want to meet Yvon Chouinard, but also "brand ambassador" Chipper Bro. I want to take notes but I don't want to figure out "what the story is." I want to finish the Dirtbagging in the Hamptons project. I want to meet surfers famous and unknown, greats and groms alike. I want to carry my surfboard to an unclaimed point break. I want to meet the Pezmans and see the Surfer's Journal headquarters. I want to give everything I can to the Surfrider Foundation and the parks and nonprofits where I volunteer. I want to surf Old Mans, Trestles, Church, Swami's, Salt Creek, Windandsea, Malibu and Emma Wood State Park. I want to get out of my comfort zone and ride different boards, including a noserider. I want to surf longboards and shortboards, eggs and fish. I want to borrow boards and let people ride the Pumpkin Seed. I want to get the Pumpkin Seed signed by everyone I meet. I want to take pictures of people signing the Pumpkin Seed. I want to document my trips on the blog. I want to see Kate and Phoebe sing at Westminster Abbey. I want to have dinner with the family on Kate's birthday. I want to really listen to what the kids are saying. I want to encourage them to grow. I want to be a better husband, a better father, a better sibling, a better in-law. I want to learn new skills. I want to be open to new ideas. I want to be a YES MAN not a No man.
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