Friday, July 31, 2009

Terry Martin, legendary shaper

Terry Martin notes

San Clemente. July 30, 2009

I'm walking around, checking out surf shops in a neighborhood in San Clemente with auto-body shops and shaping bays. A guy going into the shaping warehouse space, holding a blank. I was like, “is that Terry Martn?”

I chase him in there, but he disappears into an “employees only” area.

I go back into the surf shop part, looking for Jeff, my first contact at the shop.

Suddenly, Terry comes back in. I ask him if it’s him. Yes.

He tells me he first shaped a board in 1952, at age 14. In San Diego, I think, forget the break.

Boards weighed 85 lbs then, and he was just a kid, riding the shoulder of waves while the established surfers took the best. Surfers were he-men then, and liked overpowering waves.

He shaped a board out of balsa and redwood that was a foot shorter – around 10 feet – and weighed just 20 lbs. It had no fin, just a V bottom that went the back half of the board.

He showed it to Sunny Someone??? Magera? Margolis [started with an M].

Sunny was disdainful of the board and its weight: “That’s cheating,” he said.

Then Terry went off and surfed – really surfed waves.

Eventually, Sunny came over. “Gimme that board,” he barked.

On his first wave, he fell off. Then he started surfing. Two hours turned into three.

When he came in, Sunny told Terry: Make me one of those boards.

That was the start of Terry’s shaping career. He’s been shaping at Hobie for many years.

On the Peter Pan Slug.

A guy had a custom board made – big ugly shape, very wide, wide nose.

Then he reneged and said he didn’t want it.

Hobie or Terry called one of their East Coast customers, Peter Pagniotis at Watershed in Rhode Island. Asked him if he wanted it, then shipped it.

Peter Pan called soon after and said the board sold right away. Could they make another? And make it as ugly as possible. So they made it pea-green colored.

Again, the boards sold. And that was the start of Hobie’s very popular Peter Pan Slug model.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

California dreamin

In 36 hours, i spent 14 hours on planes and traveled through 8 times zones. From London to Philly --- long enough to repack bags, grab surfboard and mow the lawn -- then on to California. With a stopover in Vegas. Had four hours of knocked-out sleep in a Days Inn, but now i'm ready to get some waves!

Thursday, July 9, 2009

All I want for summer

This summer, I want to work with my hands. I want to live off the food that comes from the garden. I want to surf till my arms are too tired to paddle. I want to go to sleep with salt on my skin. I want to eat Mexican food. I want to see where surfboards are made — the backyard sheds, the converted shipping containers, the warehouse spaces. I want to hear shapers tell their stories. I want to talk to old guys at San Onofre who have surfed since the 50s. I want to sleep on the ground. I want to get sunburned. I want to hoot when I catch a wave. I want to ride my bike. I want to run trails in the mountains overlooking the Pacific. I want to talk to the fisherman that catches the haddock in Maine. I want to smell the grass after it's mown. I want to "hear" music again, but also listen to the sound of the waves. I want a tour of Patagonia's headquarters. I want to meet Yvon Chouinard, but also "brand ambassador" Chipper Bro. I want to take notes but I don't want to figure out "what the story is." I want to finish the Dirtbagging in the Hamptons project. I want to meet surfers famous and unknown, greats and groms alike. I want to carry my surfboard to an unclaimed point break. I want to meet the Pezmans and see the Surfer's Journal headquarters. I want to give everything I can to the Surfrider Foundation and the parks and nonprofits where I volunteer. I want to surf Old Mans, Trestles, Church, Swami's, Salt Creek, Windandsea, Malibu and Emma Wood State Park. I want to get out of my comfort zone and ride different boards, including a noserider. I want to surf longboards and shortboards, eggs and fish. I want to borrow boards and let people ride the Pumpkin Seed. I want to get the Pumpkin Seed signed by everyone I meet. I want to take pictures of people signing the Pumpkin Seed. I want to document my trips on the blog. I want to see Kate and Phoebe sing at Westminster Abbey. I want to have dinner with the family on Kate's birthday. I want to really listen to what the kids are saying. I want to encourage them to grow. I want to be a better husband, a better father, a better sibling, a better in-law. I want to learn new skills. I want to be open to new ideas. I want to be a YES MAN not a No man.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Three sport day

Three sport day. Gotta love this time off from work. Woke up at 3:30 a.m., grabbed a cup of coffee at Wawa, and drove down to Ocean City, N.J. Surfed for three hours. Surprisingly good, considering Surfline called for "flat and poor conditions" and Magic Seaweed was calling for just one star. Let's call it 1-3 feet, with the wind wavering between sideshore and off shore. Am riding a Michel Junod "Pumpkin Seed" model, 6-9 x 21.5 x 2.75, hand shaped in Santa Cruz. It took me a while to figure out you have to paddle it forward and you have to surf it forward. So today, I finally catch like 25 waves on this thing, and really discover the sweet spot. I've been riding short boards the past few years where you plant your foot on a stomp pad in the back and NEVER MOVE. With this board, you move your feet, get your fat ass forward and cruise. If you stand with your feet close to together and your hands just so, you ARE Joel Tudor. It's so ... God, i was starved -- i wanted a big fucking steak, or a juicy burger. Went to the North Side Grill, this tiny place with the paint peeling off and a grom board nailed to the wall, but it was amazing ... or at least it seemed so after nearly starving to death out there. ...
Back in the car, windows wide open on the AC Expressway, racing to get back to Philly and Boathouse Row, determined to get in my three sports.
Ran three miles on the Kelly Drive in mid-day in July .... made possible only by the fact that it was a cool, dry day. None of Philadelphia's legendary humidity. Now, i'm just keeping the motivation going. Got out on the water. It may have been coool and dry, but out on the water, the sun was beating down on the water, the wind had kicked up, and, to quote Jack Black, i'm thinking: "This ain't no walk in the park, lady." But, this was now the 10th straight day on the river, and i was feeling that every day rhythm, which says somedays are going to be good, some bad, but you're going to power through this. I got back to the dock and miraculously i felt OK. I'm loving this.

Monday, July 6, 2009


No bad days on the water

Eight straight days on the river. Rowing every day. This is how it's supposed to be. Some days are good, some not so good. Calm wind, high winds, low water, high water, clear skies, rain. Doesn't matter. It's that every day rhythm that feels so great. You say hello to the same people on the river. You make progress. You feel stronger.